Panther Chameleon Care

Habitat

Panther Chameleons need to be housed individually. A 2x2x4 enclosure is recommended. We like to modify ZooMed Reptibreeze by drilling corrugated plastic to the back and sides of frame. That way the top and front stay screen to acheive proper air flow, while the plastic siding retains humidity within your chameleons habitat.

In regions that are especially dry, glass enclosures can be used, as long as the top is mesh and outfitted with a waterproof computer fan. Using smart plugs, set the fan to pull air out in ten minute intervals hourly.

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Hardscape

We like to collect our branches from nature, mainly picking from driftwood or non decaying hardwood. When sourcing materials it is important to pick sticks of different diameters, to avoid long term issues with your chameleons feet. To prevent hitchhiking pests and pathogens, we sterilize our haul by covering everything in boiling water, combined with a dab of original Dawn soap. We then allow it to steep at least twenty minutes.  Afterwards, it is important to dry out the wood thoroughly before use.

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Foliage

We highly recommend using live plants. Our favorite Chameleon safe plants include: Schefflera, Pothos, Zz Plant, Croton, Philodendron, Alocasia, and Parlour Palm. If unable to use live plants use plastic foliage only, spot cleaned daily, and deep cleaned weekly.

Silk foliage is porous and harbors bacteria, we do not recommended it. (Keep in mind with fake plants you run the risk of impaction.)

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Lighting

UVB: T5 HO (high output) linear UVB bulb. With an HO fixture. We recommend Arcadia 6% or Reptisun 10.0 bulbs (replaced yearly.) Sunblaster has reputable HO fixtures to house these specialty bulbs. Make sure your fixture comes with a reflector.

Heat Bulb: ZooMed 50watt or Halogen/Incandescent bulb of the same wattage. 

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Grow Light: If opting for live plants bright white light is required, 6500k light is ideal. LED shop lights or T5 grow lights of this spectrum will work.

Lighting and Branch Placement

UVB: Mounted three inches above the top of enclosure. 

Basking Bulb: Mounted five inches above the top of enclosure.

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Not only will you want to incorporate many vertical and horizontal pathways, you'll want perching spots within different temp/humidity gradients. You will also need two separate (horizontal) "basking branches." One directly under the heat bulb and one under the UVB. Both should be secured where the top of the Chameleons body, when perched, measures six inches from the top of the enclosure.

The placement for these are important because high levels of close range UVB are cancerous. When not given enough, Chameleons can't process their D3.

Climate

Daytime Temperature: Ambient (room temps) 72-77 degrees (Fahrenheit) Basking spot 80-85 degrees. Uncomfortable above this. Dangerous above 90 degrees.

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Nighttime Temperature: 60-70 is recommended, but dangerous under 50.

You want your lights to cycle twelve hours on, and twelve hours off. (Example. Lights on at 10am and off at 10pm.)

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Nighttime Humidity: Above 80% (recommended 90-95%)

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Daytime Humidity: 40-50% 

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Dialing Humidity/Hydration

If you don't have a misting system, we recommend running a humidifier through the night, combined with misting your chameleons habitat for one to two minutes after lights out. You will also want to drip water onto a leaf using a drip cup in the early morning after the lights turn on, as they will not drink from water dishes.

Bacteria known to cause deadly Ri's with chameleons can build up when things don't fully dry out over a 24 hour period and that stagnant water combines with heat. To avoid this you will need to allow your habitat to fully dry out in the early afternoon using fans pointing away from the habitat. Or even better a dehumidifier running for a few hours when the lights turn on can eliminate the chances of you ever having to deal with this.

If you have a Mist King, set it to go off one to three minute intervals at 10am, 10pm, 12am, 2am, 4am that way dripping, hand misting, and fogging are optional.

Diet

Panthers (strictly insectivores) need to be offered a staple diet that mainly consist of Banded Crickets, Roaches, or Grasshoppers combined with BSFL/BSF, and Silkworms. A well rounded varied diet is recommended. Incorporating occasional Hornworms, Superworms, Cicada, Moths, Bottle Fly and Waxworms can be a great way to ensure a well balanced diet. We treat these insects as empty vessels that we pack full of the proper nutrients chameleons need to survive and thrive. 10-15 insects every other day is a good starting point but of coarse it's best to read your chameleons behavior and anatomy looking for signs such as sunken casque (malnourished) or swollen casque (Obesity) and be the judge yourself on a cham by cham basis. 

 We feed our feeder insects mainly dark leafy greens such as Collard, Mustard, and Dandelion Greens lightly coated in supplements. Some other chameleon safe gutload you can feed your insects would be Squash, Carrots, Sweet Potatoes, Papaya, Peaches, pineapple and occasionally a banana. Bee Pollen, Spirulina, dried hibiscus, powdered alfalfa and Seaweed can also be used as a dry gut load. 

Supplements

These are to be dusted very lightly on feeder insects before offering to your chameleon accordingly.

Calcium Carbonate no D3-Every feeding

Calcium with D3(Repashy Calcium plus Low)- One time per week.

Multi Vitamin (Repashy Supervite)- One time per month.

Preformed Vitamin A (Repashy Vit A)- Only one time per month to avoid overdose. Never mixed on the same day as other supplements.